Phil and Chris

Phil and Chris

Thursday, 2 August 2012

Eight days on the Appalachian Trail (without Buster)

This is the last I saw of our intrepid hikers.

I stayed home, looked after the fridge and sent my little comrade, the alpaca.  He tells the story from here.

Day 1.  The campground host at Matthews Arm (Shenandoah National Park) was kind enough to catch us early that morning with a forecast.  Another storm on its way, should be through by about mid day and potentially worse than yesterdays storm which caused us to delay our departure.  The good news was that the storm would bring about a cooling change in the weather and in a day or two it looked to be sunny and pleasant.  We left Buster in charge of things in the RV and walked the two miles to Elkwood wayside for a breakfast stop.  Nice.

The packs are a little heavy but legs, feet, backs ect. seem to be holding up well. 

Seven miles, one bear sighting and three mountains later, our hikers are truely showing their ages and poor fitness levels.  Where is that hut??  We were down to our last litre of water (each) and needed to get to the hut to refill our water bottles.  Bone weary, our sweaty hikers arrived at our first overnight stop.  Great spring, filled all the containers up and rinsed our clothes and selves, then ate a big pasta and salami dinner.  No sign of that storm.

Anticipating sore backs and various aches, a short hiking day was planned for day 2.  We woke to rain, plenty of rain.  Around mid morning the rain let up and we headed down the mountain to Thornton Gap, looking forward to real restrooms with running water and a snack shop.  However, there was no shop and the available water required purification, but we had a nice breakfast stop before tackling a two mile climb up Mary's Rock (1300 ft to 3500 ft).  Not so extreme as we experienced in Utah (or Nepal) but a rare joy hauling the big packs all the way up in the rain.  We arrived at our second hut after only 4.5 miles fairly early in the day and just as it stopped raining.
That is me on the sleeping mat.

This hut was a delight, complete with fireplace and, had we access to any dry wood, we could have actually dried our soaking clothes.  The nearest water source was 0.3 miles (0.5 km) down a steep hill.  Quite an enjoyable walk down to the spring without the big pack, but uphill, with over 14 lbs (6.4kg) of water hanging from the arm, was less so.
All food, or anything that could possibly smell like food, must be hung ten feet up on a pole to prevent bears, raccoons or other critters getting to it.  The food was fine but yes, indeed, a bear lurked around the hut at night and our guess, based on the evidence, is that he was a big one.  Mice run all over the huts at night and partially shredded our toilet paper roll.

It rained all night and Day 3 saw our hikers in wet socks, wet shirts, wet undies - well the only dry gear we had was our ponchos.  Six and a half miles later it was still raining and we checked into a room at Skyland Lodge.  It is supposed to be a holiday, not basic training camp.
The trekking pole is good for a little rest when we are exhausted.
Following a nice, hot meal, a beer, and a comfy bed at the lodge, Day 4 started with everyone refreshed and in dry, if not clean, hiking clothes.  Eight miles later we arrived at our first planned "luxury" stop, which was Big Meadows campground where they have a laundry facilty, showers and a small camping store.  We got to use our new lightweight tent for the first time, and it was great to have clean clothes again.

Chris resting her feet and nagivating

Day 5 looked like a nice hike...no outrageous mountains or anything in the way, so we were on our way to another hut about 8 miles further along the trail.

 Who thinks of making these trails in the mountains?  The Appalachian Trail stretches over 2000 miles (3220 km) from Maine to Georgia...why didn't they make a trail along the coast or somewhere flat, like the great plains.  However, the scenery is spectacular along the way and walking in the forest is much cooler than in the sun.

We arrived at the hut, only to find the spring was dry, so we walked another mile or so to Lewis Mountain Campground where there was plenty of water and joy of joys, beer.  Another night in the tent and we made the decision to turn around and hike back to the RV.  Our original intent was to hike to the southern end of the park and hitch back to the RV or something.  We started worrying about the "or something" and decided walking to the RV would be easiest.
Phil near a trail marker. 
By this time the hikers were somewhat fitter.  In perfect weather, we were able to hike over 12 miles from Lewis Mtn Campground to the Hawkesbill Mtn Hut, which had a good spring and stunning views of the valley.  Next day was a big one...15 miles to Pass Mtn Hut (the first hut we stayed in back on Day 1).  The two miles down Mary's Rock was not really any more fun down than up. 

Finally, our last day, and it looked like we'd survived...hadn't run out of food or taken too much and all the gear worked well.  We'd purchased a new hiking stove and cooking pots, plus a UV water purifier (truely wonderful thing), as well as new sleeping mats and of course the tent.

About three miles away from the RV we nearly had a disaster...a rattlesnake!!  Chris was about one step from stepping on it when it started rattling...what a loud and scary noise.  We tripped over ourselves backing down the trail until we were far enough away and the rattling stopped.  Now what?  We needed to get past it.  We all (the snake, Phil, Chris and I ) stood around for a while and finally the snake decided to cross the trail.  When it was a few feet clear of the trail we went running past.  Stopped for a photo, but it started that rattling again, so we took off.  What a comedy act...never thought they could move so fast with those packs.

Everyone was pretty happy to see that RV where we'd left it, and Buster is glad we came back.
Plenty of miles left on the AT for another time.

Tuesday, 10 July 2012

I AM ALARMED

This crazy idea that they have...hiking the Appalachian Trail for 70 or 90 miles!  What is so wrong with sheets and pillows, creature comforts...and red wine?

Chris and Phil have been out shopping for camping items and ordered a few more things on line, and they say they plan to do this hike.  I'm not sure if I need to hide, run away or just convince them that I don't need to do this.  Help!

Friday, 6 July 2012

Hot summer days

It has been pretty warm here.  Chris and Phil have sort of based us in Virginia and taken some short trips around the mid-atlantic region with a brief foray into New England.

Initiallly our plan was to sell the RV, however, we need to get Phil's drivers license renewed and into his hands before we can rent a car.   The new drivers license was posted out to the wrong address, so we have been waiting weeks for it to arrive, and now we believe it is on it's way.  This life of travel can have it's difficulties, but we don't complain, we just get on with getting on.

We did a nice job cleaning the RV, and are still using it for these shorter trips.


We had an interesting, but very brief, drive up to Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Long Island.  It is a beautiful area, rich in maritime history.  The traffic is the only unfortunate part about that area of the country...we drove around New York City in the middle of the night and there were still plenty of cars on the roads.  On the return journey we took a car ferry from New London, Connecticut over to Long Island, which was a far more relaxing way to go.



After parking the RV below and departing Connecticut it was time for a coffee.


We had a nice drive along Long Island, plenty of fresh fruit and veggie stands along the road so we had a few goodies to take back to Virginia.  The drive through New York was pretty slow, even on a Saturday afternoon.

There was quite a summer storm through some of the eastern states with millions of people losing power recently.  We were camping up in the Shenandoah National Park during this time, so being without power didn't really make much difference to us.  The cooler mountain air was welcome too and we hiked a few miles, again looking for the elusive bears.
Hiking on the Appalachian Trail.  The Appalachian trail extends 2,181 miles from Georgia to Maine.  Every year 200-300 walkers hike the entire track.
No power is no problem here.  Brats and roasted corn, yum!
One of the park visitor centers.
Great mountain views all along Skyline Drive.
We enjoyed this park.  Chris and Phil are talking about getting a hiking stove and doing some hiking on the trail with their backpacks.  I am hoping they don't try and include me in the adventure.


Monday, 18 June 2012

A day at the races

We headed east again after departing Wisconsin.  We visited friends in Chicago and family in Ohio and are in Virginia catching up with some more family.  Chris has family all over the US.
Cousin Pat is a drag racer and agreed to Phil and Chris tagging along to the races one day.  As a matter of fact, they were the pit crew for the day.  Between each race we had to check the air in the tires, add fuel, attach the golf cart and push the race car into position and plug the charger in.  Pat did the complicated stuff.

Pat's car is currently fitted with his smaller engine that puts out 900 horsepower.

Before each race the cars all line up with the competitors.  During this time Phil made sure the tires' air pressure was exactly right and helped Pat move the car into position.  Pat put on his driving gear and strapped himself into the car.
Next the cars drive forward for another check and then into the burnout area.  Phil had to guide Pat so the rear wheels were in the little puddle of water.

When the tires are warmed up it is time to start.

Those tiny wheels at the rear keep the front end from going too far up.

 One eighth of a mile later it's all finished until the next round.  Zero to 140 mph in 5 seconds.

What a fun and interesting day!  Next time I'd like to drive the car.  I've been helping out in the shop to learn the ropes.

Don't I just look splendid next to the shiny red racing car?!  I could be the fastest polar bear on the planet.

Thursday, 14 June 2012

Great Lakes

Hello again.  Bet you all thought they left me at Bear Country or something.  Phil and Chris make a lot of threats, but I think they kind of like me.

We travelled through the remainder of South Dakota and then cut diagonally north through Minnesota to Duluth, with a brief photo stop in Paynesville.

The farmers were all out working the fields and getting crops in.  We spent a few days outside of Duluth, before heading over the bridge to Wisconsin.  Check out the ships in Lake Superior, the largest of the Great Lakes.

Once in Wisconsin, we camped on the shores of Lake Superior in the small town of Washburn.  The town is so small, that when Chris and Phil went to the local pub for Friday night fish fry they met a local who knows someone that went to UW-Madison with Chris.

The lake is ridiculously cold, my paw went numb when I stuck it in for a moment.  However, cold water was not enough to deter five intrepid sailors!!  Yes, sailing at long last.  We charted a sailboat with a couple of our friends and spent three fantastic days on the lake in the Apostle Islands National Park.  We had the usual interesting variety of weather typical of May here, but enjoyed the sailing and some short hikes on the islands, as well as catching up with friends and great food.

After our nautical adventure we went south to visit friends and relatives in Wisconsin.  In November we were here, and it was so cold that we cut our visiting short and headed south.  The weather is much better at this time of year...Wisconsin is a most beautiful and enjoyable place for about 4 or 5 months. 

We were invited salmon fishing!  On this day the weather did not cooperate, and it was pretty cold and rainy out on Lake Michigan.  The fellows we went with were going to take part in a tournament the next day, so they know where the fish are.  Here is Phil bringing one in.
 Bonus...this will be dinner for a few nights, I hope they remember to share with their favorite bear!

Another point of interest we visited in Wisconsin is the John Deer museum.  This place has over 500 John Deer tractors and various equipment, all stored in nice new sheds.  They try to collect the first of every model produced, and they are all restored with fresh paint and new tires.

How could we spend time in Wisconsin without mentioning cheese?  Here we are at the Mars cheese castle just before we left the state.  They had a terrific selection of cheeses, as well as other yummy Wisconsin specialties.
Thank you to the family and friends in Wisconsin (and Illinois) that made our visit terrific.

Thursday, 17 May 2012

Badlands

The Badlands are in South Dakota, an hour or so east of Mt Rushmore and some of the other sites.

There seem to be two parts to this park.  The eastern region is dry, hot, rugged and fairly inhospitable.




The Western area is grassy and full of animals.  Hundreds of prairie dogs live here and they are hilarious.  They are tiny animals that burrow into the ground, however they seem to spend most of the day above ground in a social atmosphere.  They seem to have a warning system when people come to gawk...they sort of stand up, throw their front legs wide and scream.  It is really quick, never caught one in a photo, but funny to watch.

 One afternoon we were joined for happy hour by a number of bison.  While we were sitting outside with a beer, they slowly encircled us and the RV, while munching the grass.  Of course they wandered away when we got up to get a camera.  Earlier, Phil and Chris went for a little hike nearby and learned an important lesson on not startling the bison.

On the way to the drier, eastern area we spotted this sheep chilling on a ledge. 

Near the Badlands National Park are some of the old Minutemen missile silos.  Most of the silos in this area have been decommissioned and there is one launch facility and one silo open to tourists.

They built the launch facility to look like a ranch house.  Sort of.
 Burried underneath the living areas in the house is a thick walled pod where the officers were stationed for 12 hour shifts in case the need arose to launch a nuclear missile.  The pods were constructed to withstand a near miss by a nuclear strike, and there is an escape hatch.  If there was a nuclear strike, why would you even bother trying to escape??


A little Minutemen humour.

The next stop was at a missile silo.  There is a missile down in there.
 The lid on the silo is pretty thick. 

After our visits to all these sites we started our long drive east across the rest of South Dakota.  Trust us, that state goes on for a long time.